Improvement in the manufacture of boots and shoes



T'. ,FEAREY & E. CHIGKERING.

Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.

No.\54,134. Patented Aug. 18,1874.

" ZZZ/6732076.

YNE GRAPHIC C0, PHPTU "LITLES & H PARK PLACER! UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE.

THOMAS FEAREY AND ALVIN E. GHIOKERING, OF ALBANY, NEW YORK; SAIDOHIOKERING ASSIGNOR TO SAID FEAREY.

IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 154, [34, dated August18, 1874; application filed May 13, 1874.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, THOMAS FEAREY and ALVIN E. OHIOKERING, of the cityand county of Albany, State of New York, have invented a new andImproved Mode of Constructing Machine-sewed Boots and Shoes; and we dohereby declare that the following is a description thereof, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of thisspeciiication, in which Figure 1 represents a perspective view of ashoe, illustrating the first stage in the process of construction. ofthe same, as practiced in our invention. Fig. 2 represents a perspectiveview of a shoe in the secondstage of its progress of construction aspracticed in our invention. Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view of asection of the inner sole and upper, and the manner of securing the sametogether, as practiced in our invention. Fig. 4 is a cross sectionalview of the same, with the sole secured for the final finish of theshoe.

Our invention relates to that class of boots and shoes known to thetrade as machinesewed boots or shoes, in which the soles are secured totheir uppers by stitching, either by thread or by wire screws andconsists of a machine-soled boot or shoe having its upper overlappingthe edge of the inner sole upon its lower or wearing surface, and unitedthereto by lateral stitches, and its outer sole secured by a line ofvertical fastenings passing through its upper and the inner sole; theobjects of the invention being to unite the inner sole to the upper in amanner equally as strong and durable-as when stitched by hand, todispense with the use of tacks or nails in the inner sole, and toproduce a machinesewed boot or shoe in which the upper will not partwith the inner sole when the outer sole has become worn, as hasheretofore been the case.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use our invention, wewill proceed to describe it inreference to the drawings and the lettersof reference marked thereon, the same letters indicating like parts.

In the drawings, A represents the uppers,

comprised by the front a and back quarters b.

B, Figs. 1, 3, and 4, is the inner sole. G is the sole proper.

Heretofore it has been the practice of the trade, in machine sewed orpegged soled boots and shoes, to last the inner sole on the last, withthe lower border edge a of the uppers drawn over the edge of the innersole, substantially as shown in Fig. 5, where it was secured by tacks ornails 2:, as shown in the said figure; the upper, where thus secured bya row of tacks, commencing at a point forward of, the shank and runningto and round the toe, and a second row commencing at a point back of theshank and running round the heel, leaving, at the entire length of theshank, the upper in loose contact with the inner sole. The outer solethen was placed over the inner sole, and the border edge of the upperturned over the same and stitched vertically through both the outer andinner soles, and the upper between, with the nails or tacks remaining,and with their points projecting through to the inside, when they wereturned over and clinched, more or less. It is well known that thispractice of constructing the boot or shoe was deficient in the strengthof the union of the upper with the inner sole, and that when the threadsof the outer sole were worn through the several parts would come apart,and the shoe or boot would become useless; while the points of the nailsor tacks would always remain, to he a source of annoyance anddiscomfort, and a means for discoloring and injuring the soles of thesocks or stockings of the wearer.

In our invention, the inner sole is cut with the channel 0, Figs. 1, 3,and 4, which channel is made at a distance from the edge of the saidinner sole, in a lateral direction toward the said edge, as shown inFig. 3. The said inner sole is then placed upon the last, and the upperA is drawn over in the usual manner, with its border edge e overlappingthe portion of the inner sole outside the channel 0, as shown in Fig. 3.In this manner the said upper A and the inner sole B are conjoined andsecured by stitchings s 8, Figs. 1 and 3, made by a machine, in alateral direction from the channel 0 outward and throu h the border theshank permanently secured to the same throughout the whole existence ofthe boot or shoe.

The outer sole 0 is then laid over the inner sole and pinned in theusual manner. The last is then removed, and the said sole, previouslychanneled, is stitched to the inner sole by wax or other proper thread,or by screw cable-wire or other means, in a manner heretofore practicedby the trade, by the vertical stitching s s, or their equivalents, Figs.2 and 4, passing down from the base of the channel 0 of the said outersole to the inside surface of the inner sole, as shown.

It will be readily seen that by this mode of uniting the inner sole tothe upper by the lateral stitchings, and securing the outer sole to thesame by vertical stitchings, as practiced in our improved mode ofconstruction of machine sewed boots and shoes, the article will be inthe quality of its connections of those parts fully equal to thehand-made artisame time the edges of the outer sole will be made to lieclose up to the upper in all its parts from toe to heel, and the usualshank portion will be made strong, and the inner surface of the innersole will be free from all points of nails or tacks, which givediscomfort and soil and injure the socks or stockings of the wearer.

Having described our invention, What we claim, and desire to secure byLetters Patent,

A machine-soled boot or shoe, having its upper overlapping the edge ofthe inner sole upon its lower or wearing surface, and united thereto bylateral stitches, as shown, with the outer sole secured by a line ofvertical fastenings passing through upper and the inner sole,substantially as and for the purpose stated.

THOMAS FEAREY. ALVIN E. OHIGKERING.

